From Manning Gorge we decided to push for El Questro Station to spend the final two nights of our travels along the Gibb River Road. That turned out to be a very long day on the road! This section of road was the worst stretch we travelled on the Gibb. We blew a tyre on the camper and pretty much averaged between 20 to 60km’s per hour for the whole day. A few photos of this stretch of the road to begin; Continue reading
Gibb River Road
Manning Gorge
So, getting back to the Gibb River Road now – we are only about half way along it and there are some beautiful places we still want to share with you! After stopping at Bell Gorge, we set up camp for two nights at Manning Gorge. This was a really nice place to camp with heaps of campsites and the campground was quite big so if you didn’t mind a walk to the amenities you could find a campsite away from everybody else. The amenities were generator operated hot water showers – so you could only get hot showers for an hour or so in the morning and two hours at night. The generator was a little noisy but the toilets and showers were nice and clean. It was a little smelly though so I was glad we didn’t camp near the amenities. Most of the sites were quite shady which was nice but they were all very dry and dusty when we were there.
The best thing about the manning gorge campground was the river and sandy river bed right near the campsite which you could swim in – it was lovely! Continue reading
Jack Turns Eight!
I don’t know how it has happened, but I am behind on the blog posts again! Anyway – just doing a quick post today to share some photos of Jack’s 8th Birthday. How it is possible that we can have an eight year old boy already is beyond us!! We had a birthday party last weekend for Jack, his great grandma and his cousin Nick, who all have birthdays within a few days of each other in November. It was a really nice afternoon, with lots of yummy afternoon tea treats and most of the extended family on both sides who we now live nice and close to! Jack choose the theme of a ‘lego birthday party’ this year, so his birthday cake and some treats were created to look like lego as best we could!
I made a frangipani pie for Jack’s great grandma (Matt’s grandma) as I thought she had grown out of her ‘lego faze’! I did actually make two pies but proceeded to drop one on the floor while getting it out of the oven – I was sooooooo cranky!
It was a really nice afternoon with all the family and the rain even held off until after everybody had left in the evening. Jack was spoilt with some great gifts; a remote controlled helicopter, some gemstones from Pa’s collection, the boxed set of the Narnia books, a lego pen case, some lego, a kite, some money and some ‘how to draw’ books.
We had lots of birthday cake and even a special surprise for Matt & Ross with a bottle of home-brewed passionfruit wine from Glynis’s dad, Les. Les had brewed the wine with some of the first passionfruit picked from the vines here at Blue Sky and Glynis’s mum was very clever and wrote a poem to go with it! We opened the bottle so everybody could have a taste and it was quite good!!! We’re looking forward to the mango wine next!!
We finished off the afternoon with a wander around Blue Sky to check out the hard work Glynis and Ross had done on the backpackers dorm accommodation. Thanks to all the family that came over to help us celebrate – we felt so lucky to be home!!
Jack’s actual birthday was a couple of days later so we saved our present for him until then. He was very surprised and excited when he unwrapped some new undies (essential hehehehe), the first book in the Harry Potter series and his very own archery set. I know, I know – we may live to regret giving him that gift but for now he is being very safe and none of the ducks are yet to be targets!!
Happy 8th Birthday Jacko! We love you lots kid and are very proud of the serious, responsible, sometimes quite funny joker that you are!!
Buy A Bale of Hay
I am sure most of you are aware of the plight facing many of our farmers with two thirds of Queensland now drought declared. We drove through many of the places currently experiencing drought on our trip and we thought things were really bad then, that was months ago.
Those of you who have been following our blog for a while now know that we are passionate about rural Australia and the need to support our Australian Farmers (you can read some of our other posts on this topic here and here). Now that we are part of the farming community ourselves, we understand even better the challenges which are presently facing all Australian Farmers in relation to the profitability and future viability of our agricultural industry. So, today I am sharing a letter ‘from the Bush’ which I think explains really well why this drought is so bad and what is happening in the Australian agricultural arena at present. I know not all of you will read the letter but at least please check out the ‘Buy A Bale’ website or their Facebook Page https://www.facebook.com/BuyaBaleofHay which is doing great things to help drought affected farmers. You can buy a bale of hay for just $20 or donate a small amount to be used towards buying a few litres of diesel, groceries and other necessities for our struggling farmers.
Australian Farmers need our support, please spread the word!
“A Letter from the Bush
This drought is different.
It’s not different because virtually all of inland Queensland missed the 2013 wet season; that has happened in the past on numerous occasions. In a bad year, conversations tend to drift to other bad years and for the first time ever I have heard 1926 mentioned. Usually a comparison can be drawn with ’82 or ‘69 but this time they are going back 87 years to find a season that makes them feel lucky to be around now. Nevertheless, seasons have been missed before, that is not why this one is different.
It’s not different because of other factors such as fire or overstocking that have exacerbated the effects of the drought in some areas. The risks associated with a lack of grass are well understood in the industry because everyone has had to deal with it on some level in the past. Producers who went into this season with no grass were extremely aware of the importance of rain to their immediate prospects and that rain failed to materialise. The suffering, among both people and animals that resulted, does not make this drought different to those of the past.
This drought is not different because of the lack of options available to distressed stock. In a widespread drought, grass and water quickly become scarce. Tens of thousands of head of stock needed to be moved onto decent pasture but very little existed and as a result producers were forced to market cattle in preference to letting them die in the paddock. Markets thrive on distress and the cattle market this year has provided the perfect example. Distressed vendors are not unique to this year, however and markets have collapsed in the past. This drought is different but not for any of the reasons above.
This drought is different because people don’t see a way back. Droughts come and go and the seasons will come back but even with a succession of good years, people will not recover from the beating that they have taken in the last twelve months. There is no ‘fat’ left in the agricultural system to plan for bad years, nor to recover from them.
The process of rebuilding a breeding herd involves retaining heifers for several years and waiting for them to mature. During that time, revenue is severely impacted through reduced sales while costs increase with the growing herd numbers. It will be extremely difficult for producers to invest in rebuilding herd numbers from a low base whilst servicing all of the fixed costs associated with their business. They face very difficult and distorted markets both domestically and internationally and a high cost structure.
Profitability was eroded, many years ago and the industry has limped along on the back of cash reserves, cost cutting and equity ever since. That process is very nearly at an end. The capacity to endure further losses does not exist. The profitability crisis in agriculture can be linked to virtually every one of the issues that regional Australia is currently facing from skill shortages, to the malaise of small towns, to the perilous state of agricultural infrastructure and to the fact that these businesses are no longer in a position to properly manage in the natural environment that they are built on.
The markets for Australian agricultural product are damaged. Internationally Australian produce competes with protected industries in all of our developed world competitors. They are protected because they are not in a position to compete with the low costs of production in the developing world. Australian businesses are not able to compete either but they are expected to and they have to because the domestic market cannot absorb the entirety of our agricultural product.
Domestically, the market is dominated by a limited number of buyers and the resulting lack of competition has transferred wealth from the agricultural community to retailers and consumers.
The marketing of agricultural product has not been helped, at least in some industries, by a lack of sophistication among vendors. Prices offered have been accepted without regard to normal business practices. There has been no demand to maintain profit margins. There has been no demand to maintain excess cash flows to fund infrastructure or development. It is difficult to determine the cost of production in agriculture and many vendors have no idea what price they need to achieve to recover their costs.
Whatever the reasons for the profitability crisis, it has crippled the industry and robbed the cash reserves required for issues like drought and investment.
This drought is different because it isn’t really about the drought. The drought is just one more straw on the back of a very rickety camel.
Ben Callcott
Glenmore Station
Einasleigh 4871Australia, we need to share this, tweet, reblog, share on Facebook and forward to all we can. Thank You”
Tunnel Creek
Tunnel Creek was really cool! I know I sound like a big kid when I say that but it was just really fun and quite amazing! We had read lots about it but I wasn’t really that excited about walking through a dark tunnel filled with bats and freezing water and if rumour had it correctly – fresh water crocodiles! But after being strongly encouraged to visit by a follower on our Facebook Page (thanks Tracy!) we decided to check it out and boy are we glad we did!
Tunnel Creek is Western Australias oldest cave system, in Tunnel Creek National Park, and is famous as a hideout used late last century by an Aboriginal leader known as Jandamarra. He was killed outside its entrance in 1897.
The entrance is actually a little tricky to find which adds to the experience – the kids were so excited running off ahead of us along the path to the cave entrance that they totally missed it and had run off up a hill and we all had to turn around and come back!
The cave is about 750metres long and quite dark in places so taking a torch is a must. You have to wade through quite a few permanent water pools which were mostly only ankle deep when we were there – except for the last one which was about waist deep. I think if you are there after the wet season there is quite a bit more water around and you may even have to swim in parts. There are a colony of bats living in there and some beautiful stalactites that descend from the roof in many places. It was really quite fascinating.
We finished with a quick dip in the water hole at the other end of the tunnel which the backpackers swimming there assured us was croc-free! It is really quite a quick sightseeing trip – we spent about an hour there and felt like that was heaps of time and tunnel creek is only about a 45 minute drive from the Windjana Gorge campground where we had based ourselves for two nights. There is also some Aboriginal Artwork on the cliff face at the end of the tunnel which was quite easy to spot and something else interesting to see.
The whole family enjoyed our afternoon out at Tunnel Creek, although be warned – all that time in a dark cave can make you go a little crazy!
Derby & Windjana Gorge
Ok – now for the last two weeks of our trip on the road! After a great week at Middle Lagoon we reluctantly packed up reasonably early and were on the road out and headed for Derby by about 8am. We were all feeling a bit grumpy and sad as we left Middle Lagoon as we were now heading ‘back’ to the East and commencing the journey towards home. Up until now we had always been travelling ‘away’ – this was the first day heading back, signalling that our trip which had been almost two years in the planning was just about over!!!
At least we had the fact that we were heading into new territory again and the excitement of getting to tackle the Gibb River Road ahead of us. We had ummmed and aaahed all week at Middle Lagoon as to whether we head home via the infamous Gibb River Road or back the same way we had come across to Western Australia, via the Great Northern Highway. We were keen to not travel the same road again, but also a little worried that we wouldn’t be doing the Gibb the justice it deserved by trying to cram it all in to a week – before our trip plans were changed, we had planned to spend about a month exploring the Gibb! It was also worrying us that by having to travel quite hard to get across the Gibb in a fairly short amount of time, we might put a lot of strain on the car and camper and given that the Gibb has a name for being quite a rough stretch of road, we were not keen at all to have something major breakdown only 2 weeks out from home. However, after talking to other campers at Middle Lagoon who had done the Gibb in their caravans not to many weeks before us and said that the road was pretty good, we decided to give it a go.
So after a quick stop to check out the Church at Beagle Bay (pics in our Cape Leveque post) and a last longing look at the turnoff back in to Broome (if we had still been travelling we definitely would have spent another few weeks in Broome after exploring the Cape!), we headed to Derby (it took us about 4 hours from Middle Lagoon) for a quick look around, a late lunch and some grocery shopping to stock up on supplies before we headed off on the Gibb for a week.
We checked out the prison boab tree on our way in to Derby (it is about 7km’s outside of town on the Broome side), it is huge!
We splashed out and had some lovely fish and chips for lunch down at the famous Derby Jetty. The tides in Derby are the highest in Australia and we were there at just about high tide which was lucky! The jetty in Derby used to be used for live export but is now mainly used for barges exporting lead and zinc from a mine at Fitzroy Crossing. We all thought it was pretty interesting as we had never seen a big commercial wharf before.
We stocked up on groceries from Wollies and had to wait in line for half an hour at the bottle shop to buy a carton of beer as it was rodeo weekend in town so everybody was out buying their alcohol! Then it was off to start the Gibb River Road!! It was late by the time we started the Gibb which had the bonus that we got to witness a beautiful sunset, but once again it meant we arrived in to our campsite in the dark!
We had decided that our first stop on the Gibb River Road would be Windjana Gorge. The road to get in to Windjana was very corrugated and we again lost a headlight – not ideal when you are driving in to a new campground at dark! Lucky for us when we arrived at the campground a lovely couple saw us come in and pointed out a great campsite for us right near the shower block and then also offered to mind our tired and grumpy kids while we set up. The funny thing about arriving at a camp site in the dark is that you really don’t know what to expect when the sun comes up in the morning and you can see where you are. We were so surprised to wake up and see that this was the view that greeted us;
As we had heard that the best time to see the crocodiles at Windjana was early in the morning, we had a quick breakfast and then walked over from the campground to the Gorge to have a look around. We thought we were ‘gorged’ out after all the gorges we had seen in the Northern Territory but Windjana was definitely worth the stop!
We spent the morning at Windjana, but didn’t do the whole gorge walk as it was very hot and other campers had suggested that the best part of the gorge was just the first couple of kilometres so we were happy to just do that and then headed to Tunnel Creek for the afternoon. You will hear all about that in our next blog entry!
We camped for two nights at Windjana Gorge and it was a nice spot! The showers were hot and free – pretty good for a National Park Campground! The only downside to our time at Windjana was that after a week at Middle Lagoon without power, and then some very hot weather at Windjana – the fridge in our camper just didn’t seem to cope! Which made us very grumpy as we have struggled all along to get the camper fridge to run well on gas. Anyway – we decided for the rest of the trip to just turn it off and run with our car fridge only which worked out fine! Stay tuned for Tunnel Creek details next – it was one of my favourite stops on the whole trip!
We’re Back! An Update ……….
Yes – the Fealy Family is still alive!! Aaaargh – where to start??? We have so much to tell you! Firstly a big apology for anyone who has been missing our posts (surely someone has!), eeeeek – it has been 7 weeks since our last blog entry!!! I’m feeling excited to be back and trying to get our blog rolling again! I really, really want to finish off the entries about our trip as there are still two weeks of travelling to tell you about!
So first, the big news (and one of the reasons we’ve fallen behind with the blog) is that I haven’t been feeling too great ……………. You see, we are expecting Fealy Bub Number 4 in April next year!!!
Eeeek – yes – we are a little nuts but we are all very excited to be having one more little member added to our family! We are now 15 weeks along and I am starting to have more energy back at night and not feeling so sick so time to get the blog up to date! And if anyone dares to make a comment about ‘so that’s what happens with no TV on a trip around Australia’ – there will be trouble!
Ok – where to start? Well, the kids are all pretty much settled at their new school/kindy. It is a big school and things are a bit different up here so it is a big change but the kids are happy so far! Lexi loves kindy and has already made a great little friend called Moana. Next week they will begin catching the bus for the first time! We live not too far out of town – only about 10km’s but a school bus service goes right past our driveway and the kids are keen to give the bus a go.
After only a week at the new school, the kids all went down with a very nasty bout of gastro! It seems our three months travelling on the road kept us pretty much out of the ‘germ’ cycle so the poor kids went down hard! It was an awful week and lets just say that not having a washing machine in the house with three very sick kids, plus ‘afternoon’ sickness, does go down in my book as one of the worst parenting experiences ever!
But we all survived and the kids went back for the last week of school before the school holidays. They even made it to the school fancy dress ball – just!
I will do a seperate post on what we got up to in the school holidays but in brief we had a great time with a few days up at Ben Avon Station and then having the Townsville cousins come to visit our new place! We also had the Brissie cousins come to visit just last week too!
Other than that we have done lots of unpacking, sorting and purchasing a new lounge, washing machine and dining table – all items we sold thinking we wouldn’t be needing them for at least 12months! We were lucky that our shipping container sold in just a couple of days so that funded our new furniture purchases! We have enjoyed spending lots of time having our families close!
On the farm front it has all been happening!! Matt has had a HUGE learning curve but is really enjoying the new role so far! He is very proud of the fact that he can now drive numerous tractors, sprayers, forklifts etc and can not only use a chainsaw but can fix one too! His office worker hands have been taking a bit of a flogging ………
We have now had two loads of passionfruit and limes be shipped off to Melbourne – so much hard work goes in to the picking, sorting and packing and it is such a nice feeling to see those boxes head off in the refridgerated trucks bound for the markets! Matt will do a more detailed blog post on Farm Life soon, but just a few photos for now.
It hasn’t all gone smoothly. We have had breakdowns, a smashed tractor door (don’t talk to Matt about it), a pallet of fruit returned for re-packing and lots of long hours of research and phone calls but we are all learning fast. Speaking of learning, look who has learnt how to ride the four-wheeler all by himself???
And that is pretty much what we have been up to. At the moment we have four german backpackers staying here on the farm helping out with all of the farm work such as mulching, pruning and helping to plant the new lime trees which are going in. Hopefully by December we will be picking Mangos – yum!! I’ll finish with just a few other photos of farm life over the last few weeks. Life is pretty good! Hope you are all well! Stay tuned for the first of our Gibb River Road posts to come!
‘As One Door Closes, Another Opens’
It is so hard to believe it is all over. This time last week we were camped at Mt Surprise having our last night on the road and tonight we are spending our first night in our new ‘farm house’. Our trip honestly feels like it happened a million years ago now which is sad, but we are very excited about starting this new adventure in the Fealy Family saga!
Our last week on the road was filled with so many mixed emotions. We were sad not to be seeing so many of the places we had wanted to get to. We were disappointed not to keep going as we really felt like we were only just starting to find our rhythm – the kids were just starting to know what was expected of them and become a little more independent. But we were excited about seeing our families again, and finally getting to check out the house we would be living in and seeing the farm we would be working on. We feel a little bit strange when we pass caravans and campers in town and wave without realising we don’t have the camper on anymore – we are no longer part of the camping and caravaning crowd heading off to the next camp spot or tourist attraction.
We arrived in Ravenshoe, where my parents live, last Thursday at about lunch time, unhitched the camper and reluctantly spent the afternoon washing off our ‘proof of an adventure’ dust. Peter Prado was transformed back in to a town car once again, no longer a ‘roadtripping warrior’.
The next day Matt flew to the Gold Coast for the weekend to be the MC at his cousin’s wedding (congratulations Ant & Tran!!) which was a real culture shock after so long away from the city life! The kids and I relaxed and were spoilt rotten by my Mum (Grammy) with meals and baking and washing done for us! Jack got to show off all of our fossicking treasures from the trip and spend a day in the shed with Grunda learning how to ‘facet’ a gem.
And now we are here, in Mareeba, unpacking our container much sooner than we expected to be. So far we have only managed to unpack about a third of the container and to date we have only really been happy to see about 2 items each (Jess – the coffee table and big frying pan! Matt – his speakers and work boots so he doesn’t have to wear his sneakers around the farm anymore and look like a real city slicker fish out of water!) Even though we only had 3 short months on the road, we definitely have realised how little we really need. I absolutely could have just tossed out most of what we unpacked today!!! Finding our pre-trip whiteboard ‘To Do List’ was a little bit of a spin out ……………………………………………So – looking at this photo of our container unpacking reminds me that I really better get back to trying to locate the kids lunch boxes and school shoes in preparation for their first day in their new school tomorrow. They are all excited but I am a little nervous for them!! Enough procrastinating via blogging for one night. I still have the last 2 weeks of our trip to blog about, they were really awesome so hopefully I will have some of those coming through soon. I’ve really enjoyed the blogging, thank you to everyone for commenting and following along – it was heaps of fun reading what you had to say on our trip and we got some great advice along the way too! I’d like to keep blogging, but not sure what form that will take yet – stay tuned!
I’ll leave you with just a couple of shots Matt took today here on the farm. We had nine little ducklings hatch this morning which was a lovely sight for us ‘newies’ to see mama duck wandering around with her little ducklings following. We know that this life is not going to be all ‘fluffy ducklings’ but for now we are enjoying these little moments and the kids are in heaven!
Cape Leveque & Surrounds
While we spent a week camped at Middle Lagoon, we had time to check out some of the lovely spots along the road to Cape Leveque. First a few photos of the road. It was long, corrugated and very dusty! We dropped our tyre pressures to 28 PSI and travelled along ok – no damage to the camper on arrival – just lots and lots of dust inside – we probably should have taped up our fridge vents!! From Broome the road to Cape Leveque is unsealed until about 80km from Cape Leveque where it is then sealed all the way up to One Arm Point. On our way up to Middle Lagoon we stopped in to check out the Quondong Point free camp areas. These were only about 30minutes out of Broome and there were three camp areas off Manari Road. It looked like a lovely spot but was quite busy when we checked it out so we decided not to leave Middle Lagoon early to come back here. The track to the last Quondong Point camp spot was quite narrow so we copped quite a lot of scratches to the camper going along here and it was a little tricky to turn around at the end. We think you would have to pick a quiet time at Quondong Point to nab a nice shady campsite as most of the sites were in full sun which would make it pretty hot in the middle of the day.
One afternoon at Middle Lagoon we headed out in search of icecreams to the nearby Whalesong Cafe & Campground. It was only about 15 minutes drive from Middle Lagoon and it was a lovely spot (and it had full internet reception – if I had of known this earlier I would have taken the laptop up one morning on my own and enjoyed a cake and smoothie and gotten a couple of blog posts done – would have been lovely)! The Whalesong Campground was only small and quite basic with its amenities but there were some nice sites with lovely views over the water. The beach there was closed when we were there because a crocodile had been sighted so that was a bit of a bummer.
We took a full day trip away from Middle Lagoon and decided to check out the Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, One Arm Point and the Kooljaman Campground at Cape Leveque. It was a big day out – we left about 9am and didn’t get home until after 7pm! It was a little bit of a pain having to air our tyres up again when we hit the bitumen after the Middle Lagoon Road and then air down again when we came back in that night but a small thing to whinge about really!! If we had more time I would definitely have liked to try out one of the beach camping shelters right on the beach front at Kooljaman – something to go back for!
Our first stop was the Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm. This is a family owned and operated farm and it was really pretty – a great cafe on site with little sandpit for the kids to play in and the meals and drinks looked delicious! We did the Pearl Farm tour which was something I had wanted to do in Broome and although the tour was good and really interesting – it was very expenisve ($140 for our family) and we didn’t really get to see a lot. I was a bit disappointed too that we didn’t get to go out on the water to check out the oyster shells but that was a different tour that you had to pay extra for and was just too expensive for us. It was a beautiful spot though!
From here we headed up to One Arm Point where you are required to obtain a permit ($10 per adult) from the local general store to enter the community. One Arm Point had the most crystal clear water I have ever seen! Again – if we had more time I would have loved to have come back and spent a day snorkelling and swimming here! Another family said they saw some whale sharks here so we would probably have to be a little careful about where we swam! There is also an aquaculture centre at One Arm Point that does tours for $10 an adult which looked quite interesting.
We finished off the day with a late lunch and a swim at Kooljaman at Cape Leveque. It was a lovely spot – a bit more commercial than Middle Lagoon but lots of different types of accommodation here which looked awesome. The kids found themselves with a few scrapes on them after their swim as there were quite a few submerged rocks in the water – we might have been swimming at low tide I think! Matt got some lovely shots of the kids here!
And of course we had to stay and watch the sunset and have an icecream on the deck of the newly built restaurant – beautiful spot! And the woodfired pizzas they were cooking there looked pretty good too!
On our way out after our wonderful seven nights at Middle Lagoon, we stopped in at Beagle Bay and checked out the lovely little church there. Inside it is beautifully decorated with local shells and definitely worth a stop to see it – I had never seen anything like it!
Cape Leveque and surrounds is a really beautiful part of Australia and definitely worth the long and dusty, bumpy road in!
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