Monthly Archives: July 2013

No roads to be seen out here!

Ahhhhh, the serenity! After a whole week in compulsory caravan parks (there really is no other options at Uluru and Kings Canyon) we were going totally bonkers and in desperate need of some remote camping.

We had always planned to do the Mereenie loop after Kings Canyon, but were unsure of the road suitability with our Glamper. After speaking to a couple with kids and a camper trailer in Winton who had done it, we were sure we would be fine. On our departure from Kings though, we checked in with the reception people to do a last check of the road conditions especially after about 4 days of slight rain. The road was open with only a couple of spots with “slight caution” and one spot with “extreme caution”, we decided to ignore the “unsuitable for caravans” bit….. Karen is a camper, not a caravan!

Anywho, on the way back from the reception I got chatting to a bloke who had taken the Mereenie loop just yesterday to run into Alice to pick up some bearings for his busted trailer, they had been doing some pretty rough stuff. He said it was up there with some of the worst road conditions he had driven yet! He strongly advised that we don’t do it in Karen Camper…..hmmm…. This would mean we would have to go back to Alice the way we got in, ie back track over road we had already driven…. Something Jess and I have realised we have a rather severe allergy too.

I confirmed that it was plenty wide enough to turn around if we don’t like it, and decided we would give it a shot. We bought the permit required ($5.50 per car from the servo) and grew ever more nervous as the attendant told us 2 4wd’s had already turned around this morning, so we filled up with magical rocket juice (at $2.34p/L I assume it’s magical??) and headed off.

Well, it was fine. Sure Karen lost a mud flap and the foot off one of her legs, Peter Prado has a new rattle (or 7) but it was fine. We dropped tyre pressure down to 25psi all round and took it eeeeeeeasy. This road was different to the Plenty or the Harts Range road, which were both really just corrugations and a few exposed razor blades, the Mereenie Loop was corrugations, washouts, pot holes (or craters more correctly speaking) soft sand, rocks, boulders, the odd spare tyre just lying on the track (had the wrong stud pattern to be any use to us, bugger!) and a few random mountains of brumby poo…… All and all not that dissimilar to the Bruce Highway.

McGyver-ing a solution to a broken foot (On Karen, not me, I just had pins and needles!)

Locating a number of new rattles. 3 loose bolts on the bull bar, 2 loose wheel arches, and then a general once over with the grease gun while I was under there.

After being told we couldn’t do it by a number of people, we thought we would take our sweet time and take a few days to get to Glen Halen Station, but, because we were making good time we decided to branch off and check out Palm Valley, the thing attracting me was the “extreme high clearance 4wd track, no caravans”. After a week “camping” next to 40 foot caravans and Maui and Britz motor homes filled with foreign tourists running their aircon and hair dryers all day and night, this looked like a winner.

Spectacular Drive into Palm Valley

Well! I can tell you, this place is a must do on anyone’s list! It took us about an hour and a half to get in, driving some really beautiful country, essentially 80% of it driving up the dry Finke river bed (washed river rock base, all smooth large rock/pebbles plus sand) Beautiful!

The campground has gravel sites with some grassed areas, 3 communal fire places, flushing dunnies and……. Hot Showers! (Well, it’s solar hot water, but being the sun has come out since waaay back when Julia was Prime Minister there was none) and how’s this, the ranger came down at 1900, lit a big fire and sat around telling us all about the park, the challenges, future plans, joint management etc, very informative. Although I think he has talked Jack out of being a ranger now with his many references to the fact that a ranger is just a glorified maintenance guy, fixing fences and signs, and cleaning toilets. So Jack will now do a bachelor of science majoring in biodiversity, or just become the next Steve Backshall.

So we found a spot without too many dingoes circling, set up and planed the next day, head down to Cycad Grove and the actual Palm Valley.

Camp Palm Valley

Now this track was “high clearance 4wd only”!! There were a bunch of “diff banger” spots on this track, and man-o-man was Peter Prado flexing his legs, we had a ball! It was great to be unhitched and push into somewhere not every bloke and his Rav 4 can get too. (Sorry Benji, I think even Raging Rav would have got hung up on her diff’s through here, there were plenty of gouges and scratches on the rocks through here). As rough and tumble as this was, I only engaged the low range once for about 10mtrs of very uneven rather steep rock hopping.

Happy with the Suspension Upgrade!

How do they capture it so well in the 4X4 mags?

Anyway, we made it to the beginning of the walks (a dirty word for the kids at the moment, poor kids, I reckon they have done about 40klms of walking in the last week!) whilst this was a spectacular spot, and very few people, I think it would probably be more enjoyable if you were into the Red Cabbage Palm, which is really the whole point of Palm valley. This is the only place on the planet where they grow.

Red Cabbage Palms on the left

We virtually had the place to ourselves

Resting weary legs

The kids could run and jump and make as much noise as they liked down here

Not saying it wasn’t a nice place to have lunch.

Lunch under what we dubbed “Dingo Head Rock”

So, if you find yourself in this neck of the woods, make the trip into Palm Valley, you will easily get a camper in (although a few of the other punters down here see us and wonder if we got Karen Heli dropped in) it is well worth it and there is a great track to really test the approach and departure angles along with the limits of your rigs suspension.

Toby Spotted the rare black footed rock wallaby…. can you see it? It’s right there next to the tree….

See!

and here is another one… can you see it….in the cave, next to the green bush…..

See! We called this one the “Tobias Rock Wallabus” a close cousin of the black footed wallaby, this one just has red hair!

The “Car Park” at the beginning of the walk.

Our Little Pink Mountain Goat

I’ve been amazed by the sheer volume and variety of wild flowers everywhere!

Palm Valley

So, now that we have reception for a few days here in Alice Springs we are catching up on our blog posts and trying to fill you all in on what we have been up to for the last two weeks.  Prepare yourself to be ‘gorged’ out as we have done heaps of beautiful walks through some spectacular gorges and have a tonne of photos to share!

Kata Tjuta (also known as ‘The Olga’s) are the large doomed rock formations which also make up the same national park as Uluru.  We purchased the three day national park pass for $25 per adult (kids were free) for the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park and after spending the first two days exploring Uluru we decided to spend our last day in the park checking out the ‘rocks’ we had seen from Uluru.  After walking all the way round Uluru the previous day, we had planned to just take it pretty easy at Kata Tjuta, but when we got there we couldn’t resist the 7.4km full circuit ‘Valley of the Wind’s Walk’.

It was a pretty tough walk and took us about 4 hours with the kids but they managed pretty well.  We did piggy back Lexi for a bit and she fell asleep on my back for a short time but the boys again walked the whole way.  This walk was quite interesting for the kids as there were lots of little water holes to stop and play with their ‘leaf boats’ in.  At first we tried to hurry them along or get them to look around at the views a bit more – but then we realised that this was what the walk was all about for them – the simple pleasures of finding their next perfect stick or leaf to sail down a creek – so we left them to it and they were happy to keep plodding along.  I must admit I was quite sore after climbing the rock in the same morning we tackled this walk so I probably found it harder than anyone!  The scenery made up for the pain though – it was beautiful!  Again – another walk not to miss if you head out to Uluru.

The Valley of the Winds Walk – very hot and dry – would be a really tough walk in summer!

Karu Lookout – about 1km into the walk

The domes are really interesting to look at

Quite steep and rocky in parts

A stop to check out a small creek

Karingana Lookout – really spectacular – very hard to capture it with the photos

Family shot

Time to finish the walk down to the bottom and around the domes to the other side

Leaf boat racing

Beautiful wildflowers as we walked back through the valley at the base of the domes

Lex and I waiting for the boys to catch up

We finished the walk all quite tired and hot and sweaty, but then we decided it would be a real shame to waste the last hour of sunlight and not do the short (2.6km return) Walpa Gorge walk.  The kids did dig the heels in on walking again but we piggy backed Lex and Tobe to start with until they were happy to walk again and there was also the reward of poppers and chips and dip at the end!  Because it was so late in the day we had the gorge to ourselves which was quite a treat and although not as spectacular as The Valley of the Winds Walk – it was worth the effort at the end of the day

Walpa Gorge Walk

Walpa Gorge

Tired but happy!

We had the place to ourselves!

There wasn’t much of a sunset on this day but still pretty special sky!

Matt getting clever with the camera

‘Super Moon’ on the drive back to our campground at Yulara – very hard to capture!

The beautiful ‘Olga’s – definitely worth the drive out to them!